Falcon hood requirements: what makes a hood fit, and how to choose one
A falconry hood is a shaped leather cap that blocks sight — not light — and settles a hawk or falcon within seconds. This guide covers what actually matters when you buy or make one: measuring the head, choosing leather and lining, Dutch vs Anglo-Indian patterns, and the first-hood buying path.
What is a falconry hood?
Raptors key on sight. Cover the eyes cleanly — without touching them — and the bird reads the world as dark and safe: heart rate drops, feathers smooth out, the grip on your fist relaxes. That is the whole trick of the hood, and it is why hooding remains core falconry craft from the manning board to the field to the vet table.
A hood is not a blindfold strapped tight. It is a fitted leather cup with a beak opening, held by tension and shape, slipped on in one smooth motion and removed with one hand. Everything in the requirements below serves that single outcome: a hood the bird accepts calmly, every time.
The four hood requirements that decide fit
1. Head measurement
Two numbers, both on a settled bird: circumference over the widest part of the head (straight over the cere) and beak-tip-to-skull length. Circumference sets the size band (XS–XL); length sets how the beak opening is cut. Measuring tilted or on a braced bird skews the result by half a size.
2. Leather
Kangaroo leather is the modern standard: thin, light, and stronger at 1 mm than most cowhide at double the weight. Calf and goat are serviceable, cheaper alternatives. Vegetable-tanned only next to a bird — chrome-tanned utility leather is stiff, smells, and never breaks in.
3. Lining & seams
The interior should be lined or flesh-side finished so no raw edge passes the cere or eye rims. Seams sit away from the eyes; brace channels are stitched, not glued. Run a finger inside any hood before it goes near a bird — you feel problems you will never see.
4. Beak opening & braces
The beak opening must clear the cere completely and stay open on its own — a collapsing opening snags the beak and sours the bird on hooding. Braces (the draw cords) should seat behind the head and hold tension without a hard knot against the skull.
Dutch vs Anglo-Indian vs split-laced
| Style | Cut | Fit behavior | Typical price |
|---|---|---|---|
| Dutch | Three panels, boxed crown, front brace seam | Held by brace tension — forgiving between sizes, holds shape for years | $60–120 |
| Anglo-Indian | Seamed close to the head, low profile | Neat and light but little adjustment — rewards an exact measurement | $60–150 |
| Split-laced | Rear seam opened into an adjustable lace | The forgiving choice for a growing eyas or an in-between head | $40–90 |
Machine-sewn starter hoods run roughly $25–45. Prices are 2026 retail ballparks from maker catalogs — handmade work varies with leather and bird size.
Getting started: the first-hood path
- Measure first, browse second. Take the two head numbers (see the hood size finder) before you fall in love with any listing.
- Buy one working hood, not three pretty ones. A split-laced or Dutch hood in the right size band covers apprenticeship needs; collect show hoods later.
- Have your sponsor handle it with you. Fit and technique are judged together — a correct hood worn badly fails exactly like a wrong hood.
- Break it in on the block. Store the hood on a hood block or stuffed with a sock, oil lightly, and run short hooding sessions on a full crop.
- Re-check each season. Birds change shape with condition and molt; leather changes with weather. The fit you confirmed in October can be wrong by June.
Falcon hood FAQ
What is a falconry hood and why do falconers use one?
A hood is a shaped leather cap that covers a raptor's eyes without touching them. With visual stimuli blocked, the bird stays calm during transport, vet checks and crowd moments — a hooded falcon settles within seconds. Hooding is a training skill in itself: birds are slowly accustomed to it from the first manning days onward.
How do I know what size hood my bird needs?
Measure around the widest part of the bird's head (over the cere) for circumference, and from the tip of the beak to the back of the skull for length. Under 8 inches of circumference is XS, 8–9½ is S, 9½–11 is M, 11–12½ is L, and above 12½ is XL — hood makers size to the individual bird, so give both numbers when ordering. The hood finder on this site does the lookup for you.
What leather is a falconry hood made from?
Kangaroo leather is the modern standard — thin, light and very strong for its weight. Calf and goat are traditional alternatives that cost less but weigh more; chrome-tanned utility leather is too stiff and never used next to a bird's head. Inside, a good hood is lined or flesh-side finished so seams never sit rough against the cere.
What is the difference between Dutch and Anglo-Indian hoods?
Dutch hoods are three-panel, boxier at the crown and brace-tensioned — forgiving to fit and traditional in Europe. Anglo-Indian hoods are seamed close to the head, lighter and neater, but less adjustable: they reward an accurate measurement. Many falconers keep one of each — a field hood and a show hood.
How much does a falconry hood cost?
Machine-sewn starter hoods run roughly $25–45, handmade hoods from known makers $60–120, and custom-fitted hoods for large falcons or eagles $150 and up. A used hood is only a bargain if it still holds its shape — stretched or sweat-stiffened leather never refits.
How do I get my bird to accept the hood?
Short, calm sessions on a full crop: slide the hood over the beak opening first, then ease it back in one smooth motion, and reward immediately. Never fight a bracing bird — backing off and retrying later builds more trust than forcing the hood ever will.
Do falconry hoods need breaking in or special care?
Yes — new leather softens with use and light oiling. Store the hood on a hood block so it keeps its shape, keep it dry, and check the cere and eye rims daily for rubbing marks. A hood that has gone stiff or out of round should be re-blocked by a maker before it goes near a bird.